Oharano and the Temple of Flowers
Lesser-known temples in the Nishiyama area for superb sakura
“Hana-no Tera” Shoji-ji Temple; www.kyoto-sakura.net
Kyoto is justly renowned for its cherry trees, and the reason for this is nowhere more evident than in the southwest corner of the city known as Oharano. Located here is a temple so famous for its cherry trees that it is known as Hana-no Tera (Temple of Flowers = cherry blossoms) instead of by its formal name, Shoji-ji Temple. Its next-door neighbors, Oharano Shrine and the temple of Shobo-ji, have lovely cherries of their own, making a trip to this rather out-of-the-way place a worthwhile investment of time.
“Sengan-zakura” at Oharano Shrine
Oharano Shrine dates from about 784, when nearby Nagaoka was the site of the imperial court. When it was decided to move the court to Kyoto, along with the emperor went the influential Fujiwara clan, many of whose members were government ministers. The head of the clan invited the family’s tutelary god to relocate with them, and the god accepted, riding into the new capital on the back of a divine deer.
Because of the area’s associations with the Fujiwara, a bronze deer, and several stones are found at this shrine. Fortunes here come as tightly-rolled slips of paper
held in the mouths of tiny wooden deer. Another interesting feature is that, instead of the usual guardian lions, male and female deer keep watch at either side of the main shrine.
Cherry trees are found all over the shrine precincts, many of them around a large waterlily pond. Just beyond the pond is a stone-enclosed spring, water from which was used in 851 for Emperor Seiwa’s first bath.
Garden with the weeping cherry tree at Shobo-ji Temple
The path leading to Shobo-ji Temple starts almost directly across from the entrance to Oharano Shrine. None of the original buildings of this Shingon temple, founded in the Tempyo era (729-749), remain, but there is a large lovely weeping cherry tree that presides over a rock garden.
The garden is made up of 16 stones that resemble animals. The rocks were sent from different provinces, and you might be able to pick out a frog, mole, rabbit, parrot, bullfrog, turtle, lion, dragon’s head, lion cub, sandpiper, snake, elephant, sheep, squirrel – even a penguin!
Also on the grounds are two large statues of a Buddhist figure holding infants. This is Jizo, protector of children. Prayers for aborted children are directed to these images in hopes that their souls will receive Buddha’s heavenly guidance in the next life. Placed before the statues are small offerings of candy or other treats that a child would enjoy.
The crown jewel of this area is Hanano Tera, or Shoji-ji Temple, located a 10-minute walk in the direction of the mountains from either Oharano Shrine or Shobo-ji Temple. A large stone marker by the roadside has the name of the temple carved on it. Uneven stone steps lead up to a large, faded red gate. The paved path beyond passes through a bamboo forest, which provides the district with the main ingredient for the delectable spring dish of takenoko gohan, rice cooked with succulent slivers of bamboo shoot.
Because the temple is so isolated, the walk to it seems a long five minutes. Perhaps this remoteness is what inspired the wandering poet-priest, Saigyo (1118-1190) to compose so many verses about it. Saigyo, who once lived in a hut on the temple grounds, loved cherry blossoms so much that it was his wish to die beneath them by the light of a full moon.
Some of the temple’s approximately 200 trees are named Saigyo-zakura after him. There are plenty of Somei Yoshino trees, as well as Sidare-zakura (weeping cherries). When the blossoms are open, they add a softness to the hilly grounds; later the little pond and paths are covered with pink petals.
On the porch of the temple’s main building is a small image of Binzuru, a disciple of Buddha said to have the power to heal sickness. Generations of worshippers have rubbed off the red lacquer that once covered him in the hope that their ills would be healed through his intercession.
This temple’s relative inaccessibility means that the crowds here are smaller and better behaved than elsewhere. This part of Kyoto is truly rural and many unattended wayside stalls offer vegetables freshly-picked from the nearby fields. They operate on the honor system, so just take your pick and leave the amount written.
Access to Oharano Area: Take JR Train (Kyoto Line) from Kyoto Station to Mukomachi Station (7 min.), or take the Hankyu Train (bound for Osaka Umeda) to Higashi Muko Station (18 min.). From either of the station, take the Hankyu Bus (bound for Minami Kasugacho) and get off at the last stop (about 20 min.). All three temples are within a walking distance (about 10 min.)