REACHING FOR HEAVEN
The spring delicacy “TAKENOKO”bamboo shoot
Rising early in the morning, the bamboo-shoot gatherers drive to their well-tended groves in the low, but steep, mountains which surround Kyoto. The thick stalks of bamboo grow about a meter or so apart, and the ground is covered with a fine layer of brown leaves. Like detectives, the gatherers look for an ever-so-slight mound or rise in this layer, the telltale mark of a takenoko, or “bamboo baby.”
The best shoots are those which are dug up before they have emerged even a tiny bit from the soil. The best-tasting ones are those boiled immediately after picking, but few of us are lucky enough to experience this treat. Asa-bori, or “morning picked” ones are the equivalent of culinary gold. If rushed home, they can be washed, trimmed, and cooked as is.
In most cases, however, the shoot has been sitting around a little longer, or was picked a little late, and has accumulated enough of a certain acid, termed aku, to require special treatment (Aku refers to any unwanted trait in food. In the case of bamboo shoots, it causes a constricting, itching sensation at the back and the sides of the throat). Performing aku-nuki, or aku-removal, is very important.
One of the most popular ways to enjoy bamboo shoots is in “Takenoko Gohan” or bamboo shoot rice. Sliced bamboo shoots are simmered with rice and seasoned with soy sauce, dashi broth, and other complementary ingredients like mushrooms or chicken. The result is a fragrant and satisfying rice dish that embodies the essence of spring.
Simmered bamboo shoots is a classic choice, too. Tender bamboo shoots are gently simmered in a savory broth, soy sauce, mirin, and sugar until they absorb all the rich flavors, creating a dish that is both hearty and comforting. For those who enjoy the crispy texture of fried foods, tempura is an irresistible choice.
Whether enjoyed in traditional dishes or innovative culinary creations, bamboo shoots are a culinary treasure that embodies the essence of spring in Japan. Once you try fresh bamboo shoots, you’ll understand why you cannot eat canned ones anymore! Fortunately, Kyoto is blessed with many restaurants specializing in this delicacy. Try the seasonal delight at one or more of the restaurants in Kyoto this month!