Kumihimo
Traditional Japanese braids and plaited cords
Kumihimo, translated as “braided cord” in English, represents one of the oldest yet least known traditional arts and crafts of Japan. This is probably because Kumihimo hardly appears as an art work itself like ceramics or sculptures, but often plays a backseat role as only one small part of the textile tradition, thus, these important little braids are often overlooked.
However, Kumihimo are essential in completing the most beautiful form of many things. Once you learned about Kumihimo, you can’t help uncovering how widely this sophisticated traditional Japanese art form is utilized in many facets of classical Japanese culture; as a kimono accessory, a decorative element on furniture, a constituent of tea ceremony utensils, as a part of beautiful gift-wrapping, and so on. Kumihimo braided yarns are in use in many more ways than you could imagine.
History of Kumihimo
In the ancient Jomon period (B.C. 145th century - B.C.10th century), the origins of
simple Kumihimo were already seen in people’s daily lives. In the Asuka and Nara period (6th-8th century) in Japan, Kumihimo were made as craft works with sophisticated and complicated skills brought from Korea and China.
During the Heian (794-1185) and Kamakura (1185-1333) periods, braiding design evolved from the Chinese style to an elegant Japanese style and was used for a wide variety of objects, such as accessories on clothes or crowns, and ornaments on scrolls, boxes, instruments and furnishings.
In the Muromachi period (1333-1568), the samurai class used Kumihimo as decoration on their swords and armor. Braiding developed as an important part of the manufacture of armor, helmets and knotted sword handles for Samurai warriors. The robust braiding techniques, capable of producing materials that could withstand fierce fighting, have been passed down over generations.
From the Edo period onwards, the merchant class also began to use these distinctive braids as decoration on their clothing, as hair accessories and on handbags. The flourishing tea ceremony encouraged the demand for Kumihimo, too, since many utensils used often incorporate Kumihimo, such as an inner pouch for tea caddies.
Kumihimo came into wide use as obi-jime (the cord used to tie the kimono sash in place) in the Meiji period (1868-1912) due to the decline of samurai culture. The wearing of armor was prohibited by law and Kumihimo makers suffered from the loss of samurai business, but gained new employment from the popularity of the obi-jime.
As imported weaving machines from England began to dominate Japan’s weaving industry, the number of artisans making Kumihimo by hand decreased. Today, since kimono are only worn on special occasions, Kumihimo use has decreased dramatically, but the tradition of handmade Kyo Kumihimo (Kyoto-style Kumihimo), which was designated a traditional craft by the Minister of International Trade and Industry in 1976, is still alive in this ancient capital.
Variety of Kumihimo
Kumihimo can produce countless varieties of patterns with the combination of colors of yarns and braiding techniques: round, square, rectangular, hollow, spiral, flat, triangular and even pentagonal and half-round in cross section.
There are a number of different techniques but they are roughly classified into one of the following styles: Kaku-uchi (square), Hirauchi (flat) or Maru-uchi (round). Kaku-uchi produces Kumihimo whose cross-section appears to be square which is often used for obi-jime and straps. Hira-uchi is characterized by its flat form. Maru-uchi looks like a rope and this technique is frequently used for drawstring purses and bracelets.
The essential tool to make Kumihimo by hand is Kumi-dai, or the wooden stand. Depending
on which stand you use, the variety or complexity of Kumihimo produced varies. Maru-dai (round stand) is the most common stand which can produce braids that are either round, square, or flat. Taka-dai (high stand) creates only flat braids that can be single or double layered, with very intricate patterns. Kaku-dai (square stand) can braid strictly twined structures which requires great skill and patience to achieve the correct tension throughout the braiding.
One cord of Kumihimo consists of braiding multiple piled yarns, therefore, if the quantity of yarns is even slightly uneven, the completed Kumihimo will not look balanced and thus not perfectly beautiful. During braiding, the yarns must be braided at a consistent tension which requires the craftspeople to keep a steady speed and force adjustment throughout the long hours of braiding until the piece is finished. One might think that braiding a Kumihimo appears as a simple work of the hands, however, the difficulty goes beyond one’s imagination. The production technique has been inherited over numerous generations and the elegant taste was developed in the traditional culture of Kyoto-style Kumihimo. It is said that there are approx. 3,500 varieties of Kumihimo patterns in use.
Kumihimo can produce countless varieties of patterns with the combination of colors of yarns and braiding techniques: round, square, rectangular, hollow, spiral, flat, triangular and even pentagonal and half-round in cross section.
There are a number of different techniques but they are roughly classified into one of the following styles: Kaku-uchi (square), Hirauchi (flat) or Maru-uchi (round). Kaku-uchi produces Kumihimo whose cross-section appears to be square which is often used for obi-jime and straps. Hira-uchi is characterized by its flat form. Maru-uchi looks like a rope and this technique is frequently used for drawstring purses and bracelets.
The essential tool to make Kumihimo by hand is Kumi-dai, or the wooden stand. Depending on which stand you use, the variety or complexity of Kumihimo produced varies. Maru-dai (round stand) is the most common stand which can produce braids that are either round, square, or flat. Taka-dai (high stand) creates only flat braids that can be single or double layered, with very intricate patterns. Kaku-dai (square stand) can braid strictly twined structures which requires great skill and patience to achieve the correct tension throughout the braiding.
One cord of Kumihimo consists of braiding multiple piled yarns, therefore, if the quantity of yarns is even slightly uneven, the completed Kumihimo will not look balanced and thus not perfectly beautiful. During braiding, the yarns must be braided at a consistent tension which requires the craftspeople to keep a steady speed and force adjustment throughout the long hours of braiding until the piece is finished. One might think that braiding a Kumihimo appears as a simple work of the hands, however, the difficulty goes beyond one’s imagination. The production technique has been inherited over numerous generations and the elegant taste was developed in the traditional culture of Kyoto-style Kumihimo. It is said that there are approx. 3,500 varieties of Kumihimo patterns in use.
Showen Kumihimo - Kumihimo Connects People, Products and “En” Relationship
Showen Kumihimo started business in 1948 adjacent to Byodo-in Temple, one of the designated World Heritage sites of Japan. In those days, their main product was obi-jime (obi sash cord). Every obi-jime was carefully handmade by skilled craftspeople utilizing a fascinating process known as tegumi.
Without exception, Showen Kumihimo also had to go through the drastic decline of kimono and related accessories some decades ago. The president of Showen Kumihimo in those days, worked hard to keep their business afloat and began to develop new products. Finally, they reached the realization that “all we can do is to believe in our Monozukuri (manufacturing) skills and philosophy and move forward.”
This philosophy has been taken over by those working for Showen Kumihimo today. For them, it is inconsequential if their products are traditional or contemporary. They produce traditional Kumihimo for Japanese costumes, sacred decorations used at temples and shrines and have branched out into creating contemporary Kumihimo items, from jewelry to fashion and interior decoration. Now what is important for Showen Kumihimo is to continue to produce new forms of Kumihimo, pushing the boundaries of Kumihimo’s possibilities.
The variety of Kumihimo is not just one and the same, as there are a number of diverse processes used to tie and form Kumihimo cord. Each form has a different meaning, such as “Kiku-musubi”, this style of tying Kumihimo represents a chrysanthemum flower which is a symbol of longevity.
Tied Kumihimo are often used as sacred decoration in temples and shrines too. In its religious context, “Musubu,” or “to tie,” means to achieve one’s wish with help from one’s deity, thus, Kumihimo are considered to be an important tool to connect people with their deity.
At Showen Kumihimo’s main shop in Uji and their branch near Kodai-ji Temple, you can see and feel a variety of Kumihimo items. Why not take a traditional Kumihimo from Japan to connect people, products and spirit, “En.”
