Hachiju Hachiya
Savor the Best Brew of the Season
Spring in Kyoto includes the occasional chilly night, and local farmers worry about their crops whenever temperatures dip. But they, and locals alike, can breathe a sigh of relief around the beginning of May. This day, called Hachiju Hachiya, or the 88th Night, literally, marks the beginning of the Japanese summer on the ancient Japanese calendar (the name denotes the number of days after risshun, the first day of spring). The weather turns warm, and rice, as well as other tender annuals, can be planted from this day forward without fear.
Hachiju Hachiya also marks the optimal time for picking tea leaves. If you are lucky enough to visit a tea-growing area such as Uji (just a short train ride south of Kyoto) during this time, you would see the bright green tips of fresh leaves covering neatly trimmed, undulating caterpillar-shaped bushes. As if illuminated by a glowing, other-worldly hartreuse light, they burst forth with new life, an embodiment of health.
But there is no need to travel to Uji to sample what is considered to be Japan’s most famous and high-quality tea. Specialty shops offer many different grades and varieties of Japanese tea in vacuum-packed packages as well as beautiful tin gift containers. Tea picked around Hachiju Hachiya is usually available in May and early June, and is best enjoyed fresh.
Drinking tea on Hachiju Hachiya is believed to ensure health and prolong life, and some of Kyoto’s traditional households mark this day by placing a fresh green tea leaf in their cup. The leaf can either be eaten (it has a tender texture and bright flavor) or saved as a keepsake. Enjoying a perfectly brewed cup of Hachiyu Hachiya tea is a special treat, and it feels good to slow down and acknowledge this turning point: when you can look forward to balmy nights and put your sweaters away for good.
How to Make the Best Cup of Green Tea?
When brewing Japanese green tea, the temperature of the water greatly affects the final taste. A lower temperature brings out the flavor, while a higher temperature brings out the astringency. Here is the way to make a perfect cup of sencha.
1) Use 2 heaped tablespoons (about 10 grams) of leaves per 210 ml of water to draw out the full flavor of the tea. The proper balance between leaves and water is essential. Even a one-person serving requires 10 grams of leaves to produce the proper flavor.
2) 80℃ (176℉) is the best water temperature. To cool boiling water down to 80℃, you can pour it into tea cups before pouring it into the tea pot. This also serves to pre-warm the tea cups.
3) The tea will be ready one minute later. Try not to disturb (i.e. no shaking the teapot) the leaves during the steeping process, as this will bring out some bitterness. To ensure an even strength, pour a little tea into each teacup in turn, then repeat.
4) The last a few drops contain the essence of the tea’s best flavor. Don’t leave any tea in the tea pot! When brewing the 2nd and 3rd pot, no steeping is required. Just add 80℃ water, and serve immediately.