Plum Blossoms, the herald of spring
Baika-sai Festival at Kitano Tenman-gu Shrine
Many will say that the sakura, or cherry blossoms, are their favorite of the year. However, there are also many who would choose the ume, or plum flower of all. The trees can become very old and their very shape is exotic. The flowers have strong, sweet smell (unlike the cherry blossom that has almost no smell), that attracts bees without fail. The plum is also said to be the favorite resting place for the rarely seen but much heard uguisu (Japanese nightingale), harbinger of spring. Finally, plums have long been used to make wine (ume-shu) and extremely salty pickles (ume-boshi).
Plum tress were introduced to Japan from China I the 8th century. Of the 300 species of plum tree in Japan, the single most common is Japanese apricot. Plum blossoms can be a deep red or white. These are the colors of celebration and happiness in Japan. Nearly all gift wrapping in Japan uses red and while in some form: this comes from the colors of the ume.
Plum trees, because of their fruit, are believed to ward off danger. On many older plots of land you will find plum trees planted in the northeast corner, the so-called Demon’s Gate, from where danger and evil are believed to enter. Because of this belief, many family crests also incorporate the plum blossom into their design. Ume-boshi, pickled sour plums, are also believed to keep danger away, when eaten.
But most of all, plum blossoms herald spring and offer the perfect occasion for the year’s first picnic. In ancient times, plum orchards became the spring destination for ladies of the Imperial Court in magnificent dress, to compose poetry and celebrate the start of the love season.
Baika-sai Plum Festival at Kitano Tenman-gu Shrine
Kitano Tenman-gu Shrine is one of the most dignified shrines in Kyoto. The shrine deity is Michizane Sugawara (845-903) known for his poetry and general scholarly genius. He is the only human being deidied at a Japanese shrine.
Because of his genius, Sugawara held a high position in the court and was much consulted by the emperor. However, as the result of terrible lie by an ambitious high-ranking court noble, Sugawara was exiled to an isolated area of Kyushu where he died sad and lonely after.
Soon many strange and terrible things began to happen in Kyoto. Kyoto citizens started to say that Sugawara’s ghost was taking revenge on the capital as everyone now knew he was innocent of his crimes. To calm the citizens and hopefully make the capital peaceful again, the emperor decided to enshrine Sugawara’s spirit at Kitano Tenman-gu Shrine. It seemed to have worked out because the capital suddenly became peaceful again.
Every year on February 25th, a grand festival to commemorate Sugawara’s spirit is held at the shrine. The festival is called Baika-sai or Plum Blossom Festival, as Sugawara especially loved the plums. In the precinct of the shrine, there is a huge plum orchard with about 2,000 plum trees of 50 different kinds.
On the day of the festival, a ritual is held at the main hall and a grand tea ceremony party is held outdoors. The tea ceremony is based on the giant public tea party Hideyoshi Toyotomi (1537-1598) held at the shrine in 1587. Tea is served by real maiko and geiko from Kamishichiken. On the day, you can enjoy several wonderful experiences at one time: beautiful plum blossoms, the graceful appearance of maiko and geiko, and fine matcha green tea (\2,000; the number of ticket is limited).
During other days, the plum garden is open until around the end of March. The shrine’s treasury is also opened to public during plum season. What is more, 25th every month is the day of the grand Tenjin-san market.