FEBRUARY SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS
Setsubun
— Seasonal division to welcome luck and happiness
Setsubun, literally “seasonal division,” is the most important festival of spring in Japan. Before changing to the Western calendar in 1873, Setsubun marked the lunar New Year in Japan, as it continues to do in China (this being Chinese New Year: 2023 is the Year of the Rabbit; starting January 22). In traditional homes, the whole family will join together and chant, “Oni wa soto, fuku wa uchi.” (“Out with the demons, in with good luck.”), then enthusiastically scatter soy beans about the house to bring good luck.
The Oni-odori, or demon dances of Setsubun are the perfect place to be frightened and amused by these creatures. February is a great chance to see different kinds of oni in Kyoto. Check the Setsubun events held at temples and shrines, and enjoy Setsubun this year.
Oni-odori demon dance at Rozan-ji Temple © Moritz Marutschke
Setsubun Rituals in Kyoto
Heian Shrine (Feb 3): At 12:00, kyogen (the comic interludes between Noh plays) will be performed, and at 15:00 demons are driven out with blazing torches; City Bus #5, Kyoto Kaikan Bijutsukan-mae; www.heianjingu.or.jp
Mibu Temple (Feb. 2-4): On the 2nd, there will be a procession of yamabushi mountain ascetics and children; on the 2nd and 3rd, hourly, 13:00-20:00, an 11th century Buddhist morality pantomime play will be performed; entry free; City Bus #26, Mibudera-michi; www.mibudera.com
Rozan-ji Temple (Feb. 3): Devils in great costumes make this demon dance one of the most popular and fantastic (from 15:00); City Bus #17, 205, Furitsu Idai Byoin-mae; www7a.biglobe.ne.jp/~rozanji/
Yasaka Shrine (Feb. 2 & 3): Traditional dance performances by geiko and maiko (geiko apprentices): at 13:00 and 15:00; City Bus #206, Gion; www.yasaka-jinja.or.jp
Yoshida Shrine (Feb. 2-4): During the Setsubun Karo Festival (starting from about 21:00 on the 3rd) amulets and charms are burned in a giant central bonfire. Stalls selling sake, hot food, and fun will be open on all three days; City Bus #206, Kyodai Seimon-mae; www.yoshidajinja.com
Photo: Mame-maki bean scattering event at Yasaka Shrine
Plum Blossom Viewing in Kyoto — Bright signs of spring in the Old Capital
© Moritz Marutschke
Plum trees were introduced to Japan from China in the 8th century. Originally, the most prized tree in the inner court of the Imperial Palace was the plum. Plum trees can become very old and their very shape is exotic. The flowers have a strong, sweet smell (unlike the cherry blossom that has no smell) that attracts bees without fail. The falling petals of white plum flowers can be delightfully confused with falling snow.
In addition to the pine and bamboo, plum trees, branches and flowers appear constantly in Japanese art and culture. Actually, the three together (Sho-Chiku-Bai, read as Sho for pine, Chiku for bamboo and Bai for plum) express enduring happiness. Plum trees, because of their fruit, are believed to ward off danger. On many older plots of land you will find plum trees planted in the northeast corner, the so-called demon’s gate, from where danger and evil are believed to enter. Because of this belief, many family crests also incorporate the plum blossom into their design. Plum blossoms herald spring and offer the perfect occasion for the year’s first picnic.
Baika-sai Graceful Plum Blossom Festival at Kitano Tenmangu Shrine
Kitano Tenmangu Shrine, home to nearly 2,000 plum trees, this shrine has become synonymous with plum blossoms, which are a prominent decorative motif in its lanterns, tiles, and woodwork. From about February 10 to the end of March, the plum orchard southwest of the main shrine is open for public viewing.
Tenjin-san Flea Market and Plum Viewing Festival is on the 25th. This very popular event started as a ceremony of prayer for the repose of the soul of the 9th century scholar, Michizane Sugawara, a victim of court intrigues who died in exile on this day and is now enshrined here.
The highlight of the Baika-sai or Plum Festival, is an outdoor tea ceremony, performed by the maiko and geiko of nearby Kamishichiken district. A bowl of matcha tea with a sweet costs ¥2,000 (including entry to the shrine treasury and green tea), served from 10:00 to 15:00.
Kitano Tenmangu Shrine: Kyoto City Bus #50, get off at Kitano Tenmangu-mae; plum garden: early Feb. – mid Mar.: 10:00-16:00; www.kitanotenmangu.or.jp