Matsuno-o Taisha Shrine
Exploring Kyoto’s Sacred Oasis
Nestled at the foothills of the majestic Arashiyama mountains on the west side of Kyoto city, Matsuno-o Taisha Shrine stands as a testament to Kyoto’s rich spiritual heritage and natural beauty. This ancient Shinto shrine, dedicated to the deity of water and sake, offers visitors a tranquil retreat from the bustling city streets, inviting them to immerse themselves in the serenity of its sacred grounds and lush surroundings.
When you get off at Matsuo Taisha Station on the Hankyu Arashiyama Line, you will immediately see a large torii gate on the west side. This is the first torii gate of Matsuno-o Taisha Shrine. The sacred rock (called iwakura) located at the summit of Mt. Matsuo has been revered as an object of worship since ancient times, and later, the Hata clan, a clan of immigrant descent from Korean peninsula who settled in this area, enshrined their clan’s deity at this spot.
It is said that the shrine at the foot of Mt. Matsuo was established in 701 when the divine spirit of the sacred rock on the mountaintop was transferred to the shrine at the foot of the mountain. The Hata clan resided around Mt. Inari in the south of Kyoto and other areas in the Yamashiro (southern area of Kyoto Pref.), developing various places.
They also exerted their influence in the Matsuo area. They excavated the Hozukyo Gorge, which connects present-day Arashiyama and Kameoka, built embankments along the Katsura River, and constructed a large dam upstream of the Togetsu-kyo Bridge, contributing to the development of the land that continues to this day. Engaging in various industries including agriculture, one of their main occupations was brewing, such as sake brewing. Oyamagui-no-Kami, revered as the “ancestor god of brewing,” has been deeply respected by those involved in brewing, including sake, miso, soy sauce, vinegar, and other brewing-related industries since the Heian period (794-1185). You will find many donated sake barrels on the south side of the precincts. Not just from Kyoto, but sake from all over the country are gathered here.
As you walk through the precinct, you will often come across motifs of turtles and carp. This is because of the legend that when the Deity of Matsuo opened the Hozukyo Gorge, he rode on the back of a turtle for the calm flow and a carp for the swift current. Turtles are considered symbols of longevity, while carp symbolize success and good fortune, acting as messengers of the deity of the shrine.
Passing through the corridor leading to the main hall and heading towards the north area of the precinct, you will encounter the renowned “Turtle’s Well,” known for its pure water. It is said to have the virtue of longevity and rejuvenation, hence its nickname “water of resurrection.” It is believed that when used in sake brewing, the water prevents the sake from spoiling, so sake brewers still come here during the sake-making season to fetch water.
Don’t miss the set of three gardens here known as the Shofu-en. Designed by the renowned Showa-period garden artist Mirei Shigemori (1896-1975) in his later years, one of the gardens, Joko Garden, became his last masterpiece. These gardens are inspired by the ancient rituals held on the summit of Mt. Matsuo before the shrine’s establishment. Utilizing the slope of the mountain, at the far end of the space with varying elevations, large rocks are arranged to represent the two deities. The grass planted on the ground evokes the atmosphere of the high mountains. It’s a dynamic garden that incorporates several stones.
Matsuno-o Taisha Shrine: Access: Kyoto City Bus or Kyoto Bus, get off at Matsuo Taisha